Jozankei Onsen

Jozankei is the onsen town you can reach from Sapporo without planning anything. Route 230 follows the Toyohira River up into a gorge where 56 springs push out of cracks in the riverbed, and the hotels step down the banks so their bath windows hang over the water. Ainu guides led a Shugendo monk called Miizumi Jozan here in 1866, and he built the first healing bath beside the river.

Every hotel draws on the same clear sodium chloride water, salty on the lips and very warming. Start for free at Jozan Gensen Park in the middle of town, where you can sit at the foot bath and boil eggs in the spring.

For a full soak, most hotels sell day entry, and the tourism association publishes the current hours and prices. Tattoo rules change from one front desk to the next, so ask before you pay. Sapporo Kokusai is the hill to ride from here, and the Jozankei Ski Liner takes hotel guests up and back for ¥2,800.